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90-732 did CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE TOWN OF QUEENSBURY WARREN COUNTY, NEW YORK Date FEBRUARY 27, 19 91 This is to certify that work requested to be done as shown by Permit No. 90-732 has been completed. This structure may be occupied as a greenhouse Location SW Corner Ridge Street and Quaker Road Owner R.O. MEAD/Owner MEADS NURSERY By Order Town Board TOWN OF QUEENSBURY Director of Bldg. 6c Code Enforcement BUILDING PERMIT TOWN OF QUEENSBURY No. 90-732 WARREN COUNTY, NEW YORK („ 'o PERMISSION is hereby granted to R.O. MEAD OWNER of property located at SW Corner Ridge & Quaker Street, Road or Ave. in the Town of Queensbury,To Construct or place a Greenhouse at the above location in accordance to application together with plot plans and other information hereto filed and approved and in compliance with the Town of Queensbury Building and Zoning Ordinance. 1. OWNER'S Address is 360 Ridge St Glens Falls NY 12801 2. CONTRACTOR or BUI LDER'S Name CD self CD 0) a 3. CONTRACTOR or BUILDER'S Address tn N CD 4. ARCHITECT'S Name 5. ARCHITECT'S Address N 6. TYPE of Construction—(Please indicate by X) O ( )Wood Frame ( ) Masonry ( )Steel (X) Pipe and pl asti a co 7. PLANS and Specifications fD 1p No. 2880 sq ft Greenhouse as per plot plan, specifications and applications. 8. Proposed Use CD Greenhouse $ 30.00 PERMIT FEE PAID —THIS PERMIT EXPIRES October 26 19 91 (If a longer period is required an application for an extension must be made to the Building and Zoning inspector of the lD town of Queensbury before the expiration date.) CD 7- Dated at the Town of Queensbury this 26th Day,of .*October 19 90 c SIGNED BY � ��;�<.�, � for the Town of Queensbury Building and Zoning In ctor ['OWN OF QUEENSBURY REVIEWED B 411S1FEE PAID $ r /Q PERMIT NO. Q6,-7� NSSt11=i BUILDING PERMIT APPLICATION = ECEIVED OCT `- ? 199(3 A PERMIT MUST BE OBTAINED BEFORE BEGINNING CONSTRUCTION. NO INSPE wiz SDEPT, ILL BE MADE UNTIL APPLICANT HAS RECEIVED A VALID BUILDING PERMIT. All applicants spaces on this application MUST be completed and the signature of the applicant MUST appear on the reverse side of this application. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • * • • * • * • • • * • • • • • • • • • • • * • • • • 'he owner of this property is: ,€ 0 4,1 p-A-0 / .O. Address, Co-3 U t (�L ST (an F c S ,t/ r Tel. "7 2 - 6s-3 3 roperty LocationSOJtttj l Ccn /1c4re S `/Clvatto,r-/L Tax Map No. /,1/ / 0 as there been any split of this property since October 1, 1988? / )4 yes Planning Board Review is necessary. yes no LJBDIVISION NAME, IF APPLICABLE F7 / LOT NO. HE PERSON RESPONSIBLE FOR SUPERVISION OF WORK AS REGARDS TO BUILDING CODES IS: e 0 4,v, ATURE OF PROPOSED WORK: * ESEMATED MARKET VALUE OF Construction of a new building " /� CONSTRUCTION: $ p �}8. Addition to a building * / COMPLETE INFORMATION REQUIRED BELOW: * Size of property ft x ft. Alteration to a building , • (no change to exterior dimensions) Existing Buildings(3) Size ft. x ft. " Proposed building - distance from property line: Other work (Describe) " Front yard ft. Rear yard ft. • Side yards ft. and ft. • ROSS AREA OF PROPOSED STRUCTURE " If on corner, setback from side street ft. • 1st Floor sq. ft. OCCUPANCY INFORMATION • 2nd Floor sq. ft. * - Primary Building - Other Floors sq. ft. • —One Family Dwelling (not cellar or basement • Two Family Dwelling _sq. ft. • Multiple Dwelling/Number of units DTAL FLOOR AREAS C) ze of new structure ft x ft. • Business wndation-pier/slab/crawl/partial/full " Industrial (circle one) • i4Other 6-;e6.&X.1/4j,,,S f: 3D X 7b • D. of stories (habitable space)_ * eight (grade to ridge) 0/3`-2" ft. • If addition, what will use be? residential, no. of families • o. of rooms(excluding baths) • Accessory Building o. of bedrooms • o. of bathrooms • __Detached Garage ONE/TWO Car rimary heating system_ • ____Attached Garage ONE/TWO Car ype of fuel . • _Private storage building o. of fireplaces to be installed " • __ Other 'ill a wood stove be installed • entral Air conditioning OV' ER BUILDING PERMIT APPLICATION CONTINUED - BUILDING SPECIFICATIONS: ['ynpe of construction, wood frame, fire safe. etc. ��pe f-r4 q37-7 c Will any second-hand or upgraded lumber be used? If so. for what? Foundation wall material 1/74 Thickness Depth of foundation below grade (to bottom of footing) it,-J//J— Will there be a cellar? Ni) Heated or unheated? Floor sq. footage sq ft. Will there be a basement? &JU Will any portion be used as living space? (If so, what portion? sq ft. Type of use? Type of roof - spe. flat/shed/other Material of roof p Size, wood studs "x " spacing " o.c. length ft. Joists (floor beams) 1st floor "x " spacing "o.c. span ft. Joist (floor beams) 2nd floor "x " spacing "o.c. span ft. Overlays (ceiling beams) "x " spacing " o.c. span ft. Roof rafters "x " spacing o.c. span ft. Roof trusses (pre-engineered) spacing " o.c. span ft. Exterior wall finish of what material? Interior wall finish If a garage is to be attached, describe materials to be used for FIRE SEPARATION: Is there to be an opening between garage and dwelling? //`TI If so will a Fire-rated door, enclosure, self-closing device be provided? Will a flue-lined chimney be installed? Height above roof ft. Depth of chimney foundation below grade ft. Depth of fireplace hearth ft. in. Water supply - Municipal or private well SEPTIC SYSTEM Distance from ANY private well (including adjoining properties ,v//1- ft. separate application is necessary for any repair or new installation of septic system) AME OF BUILDER 4 Ako", ADDRESS 360 /Cer,- TEL. NO. 7512- --GS J' AME OF PLUMBER A, .„ ' ADDRESS �U CIA-AA TEL. NO. S ayi,..p AME OF MASON ADDRESS TEL. NO. AME OF ELECTRICIAN AAp ADDRESS TEL. NO. DECLARATION To the best of my knowledge and belief the statements contained in this application, together with the ens and specifications submitted, are a true and complete statement of all proposed work to be done on e described premises and that all provisions of the BUILDING CODE, THE ZONING ORDINANCE, and I other laws pertaining to the proposed work shall be complied with, whether specified or not, and that ch work is authorized by the owner. Signature Ow r, owner's agent, architect, contractor 'ECIAL CONDITIONS OF THE PERMIT: BY Co- -iz- 4,956U- `1 . i U TOWN OF QUEENSBURY 531 BAY ROAD QUEENSBURY, NEW YORK 12804 1 TELEPHONE (518) 792-5832 BUILDING INSPECTOR'S REPORT FINAL INSPECTION _c:2/15.41._ REQUEST FOR INSPECTION RECEIVED FO NAME V `E'GCl) S LOCATION DATE c91 / / PERMIT# 9() — !3 TYPE OF STRUCTURE G Y e DM RECHECK FIRE MARSHAL APPROVAL (COMMERICIAL STRUCTURE) F- OOTING FOUNDATION BACKFILL FRAMING R- OUGH PLUMBING F AL ELECTRICAL _SEPTIC -INSULATION WOODS1OVE/FIREPLACE REMARKS APPROVAL N/A YES NO CHIMNEY HEIGHT/LOCATION B VENT/LOCATION PLUMBING VENT ROOFING SIDING DECK/PORCH/STEPS/RAIL GS RELIEF VALVES FURNACE/HOT WATER 1 E" ING INTERIOR TRIM/PRI CY HORS FINISH FLOORS: BATH/KITCHEN 'TERTIG T OTHER FLOORS WEEPABL: OTHER FLOOR' CARPETED STAIR CLEAR' CE/RAILINGS SMOKE DETEC ORS DOOR CLOSE'S BATHROOM 'ANS ALL PLUM' NG FIXTURES OP RATING GARAGE FIRE PROOFING DOOR CLOSERS OTHER FIRE SEPARATION FIRE/DEMISE WALLS FINAL ELECTRICAL tlaj .� 1fi — OK TO ISSUE C/O OR C/C CO ENTS: Ako4c ARRIVE DEPART 3.3-/ INSP TO /1.te„70 J A/rirre-,-/ z • INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLY UGT 2 3 1990 OF NEW ENGLAND "30" " EP7 FORWARD The following instructions for layout, erection, framing and covering are written in sequence and should be adhered to. We are writing these instructions step by step, this is how you should build your house, one step at a time. No matter how well instructions are written or how detailed drawings are made, if you as the builder do not read them and learn the parts' names before building the house, you are bound to get into trouble. Before starting construction, we ask you to do the following: 1. Read the instructions from layout to completion of erection. 2. Learn the parts' names and find them on the Blueprint and Packing List. 3. Assemble the tools and materials you will need before you start work. SITE SELECTION Ai1D PREPARATION As we are working with a diffused light and a pipe frame that casts virtually no shadow, the orientation of the greenhouse is not that important. We can, however, make use of the lay of the land. We are referring mainly to water dispersal. If you have a 30' by 96' greenhouse you have 4,400 square feet of roof area shedding water and 2,900 square feet of ground area that will not absort it. If this run off cannot be let away, it will seep back into the house causing an unhealthy environment for the plants. Before we start the layout, consider the following: 1. The greenhouse is very flexible and can be built on a slope (out of level) ' with a drop of as much as 12" on a 96' greenhouse. 2. There is also a small amount of flexibility from side to side. 3. If the house is to be covered with fiberglass, you lose all the flexibility and the house must be built dead level fran side to side and end to end. 4. Provide at least 4' set back fran roadways. 5. Provide a minimum of 6' between existing buildings or greenhouses because of snow build up. LAYOUT Materials you will need: 1. Eight (8) stakes, 1" x 2" x 2' long, cut point on end with a saw. Do not . ASSEMBLY OF NEW ENGLAND Page 2 chop; a chopped stake will twist when driven. 2. Approximately 300' of layout line, baker's twine, fishing line or a good grade of kite string; do not use heavy mason line or nylon. 3. Line level or transit; 2' square; 100' tape. Proceed with layout as follows: 1. Establish side wall line; drive one stake 12" out from end wall line. 2. Measure down side wall and drive second stake 98' away. 3. String line between these stakes, stay on the outside of the stake with line. Do not level at this time. 4. Using a pencil mark an (x) on the line side of the stakes. 5. 12" in from the first stake and 12" outside of the line, drive the third stake. 6. String a line from this stake sideways, the width of the house plus 2' ; have someone hold the line. 7. Have one man hold a 2' square at the inside of the intersection of the 2 lines. 8. The man holding the line will move the line until the corner is approximately square. 9. Drive the stake at this position and tie line. 10. Using a steel tape, measure from the intersection of the two lines down the sidewall line 9'; tie a 3" piece of string at this point; check after tightening. 11. Measure again from the corner 6' along the end wall line and tie a second string. 12. Measure diagonally across the corner, this should measure 101 . If not 10' adjust the fourth stake, re-measure 8' , 6' and 10' until correct. With corner squared, proceed as follows: 1. Measure from the first stake driven the width of your house and drive a stake 12" out from the end wall line and inside of the width mark, mark line side (x). 2. Repeat on opposite end of house. 3. String line on (x) side of these two stakes. Establish level lines: 1. Measure 10" from the ground up and mark the line side of the third stake, tie line to mark. 2. Attach line level at center of one end wall line. 3. Loosen end of line; have one man move line up or down while one man reads line level . 4. Tie line when level ; check by reversing line level . 5. Mark where line is tied. 6. Using a level , level from end wall stake to side wall stake and mark. 7. Tie side wall lines to this mark. 8. Level side wall line same as end wall. 9. Repeat on opposite side wall . 10. Check the measurement from the top of the line to the ground on all four corners. V ASSEMBLY OF NEW ENGLAND Page 3 To adjust to grade: 1. If you have a 3" drop on 96' and do not wish to fill in, do the following: Measure down from the string 3" and mark; lower line to this mark. 2. Repeat on opposite side wall. 3. If you have a drop from side to side, adjust as above. DRIVING POSTS Material required: 1. Driving cap and post template (part of house). 2. Eight (8) pound sledge hammer, pipe wrench. Proceed as follows: 1. Position the first post inside the corner lines; hold post plumb and keep 1/8" clearance between post and lines. 2. Insert drive cap in post and drive post into ground until flush with top of line. Have the man using the hammer use short blows until post is started straight. It is important that he hit the center of drive cap each time to drive post straight. Have the man holding post keep his hands away from drive cap. 3. With the first post driven, place the post spacing template on the first post; set the second post in the notch; align post with string and drive. It is important that at no time a post touches the line. Continue until all posts are driven. 4. Repeat on opposite side of house. 5. Post alignment with line, insert a pencil through post at large holes and with a pipe wrench rotate post until pencil is parallel with side wall line. Repeat on all posts. Remove lines after this is done. INSTALLATION OF BASEBOARD Material required: 1. 1/4" electric drill with 9/32" drill, 2. Minimum of 100' electric cord. 3. 7/16" nut driver, screw driver, two pair vice grips. 4. Twelve (12) 1" X 12" X 16' , bench grade redwood or #2 white pine. 5. Three gallons green cuprinol . 6. Twelve pieces, 1/2 exterior glue plyscore cut 3" wide by 10" long. 7. One bow 1 1/4" X 9 wood screws. NOTE: Treat all baseboards with cuprinol prior to installation. Treat all cut surfaces during installation and if possible, second coat after installation. 4 ASSEMBLY OF NEW ENGLAND Page 4 Proceed as follows: 1. Clear area on outside of posts, 11" down from top of post. 2. Cut the first base 12'6" long, install 1/2" base splice to inside on one end. 3. With base held even with post at end wall , clamp to posts flush with top of post using two pair vice grips. 4. Bore 5/16" holes through post holes through baseboard. 5. Install 1/4" X 3 1/2" carr, bolt through lower hole in base and tighten home. Install top tee bolt in this manner: A. Slip post insert into post with the 5/16" hole down. B. Insert through the baseboard the 3 1/2" tee bolt through the hole in the insert and put on nut and hand tighten only. Continue until this first base- board is attached. 6. Second base leave 16' , attach base splice to one end, put into position this time using one pair of vice grips to lock base to base and the other pair base to post. Fasten base together using 1 1/4" X 9 wood screws. 7. Continue until all 16' baseboards are installed; take the piece you cut from the starter and install as the last piece. 8. Repeat on opposite side of house. INSTALLING SPLICE PLATES 1. Insert 3/8" X 3" carriage bolt through hole in splice plates; insert carriage bolt through post; put on second splice plate, nut, and hand tighten only. We must leave plates loose to receive bows. We will tighten top bolt in base after we install the bows, tighten splice plates, and install base rail . 2, Continue until all plates are installed. NOTE: Remember to keep nuts on corner posts to the inside of house. ASSEMBLY OF BOWS Materials required: 9/16 Wrenches or sockets Proceed as follows: 1. There is a top and bottom to the bows. The top is the long straight section. 2. On a level piece of ground, lay out two end bows and holding the bottoms of the bows approximately 21' apart, insert the rafter bow insert into one bow and align the holes. Fasten the bow to the insert using a 3/8 X 2 1/2" machine bolt, hand tighten only. Slip this same insert into the opposite bow and again install bolt. Tighten both bolts at this time. 3. With the bows in this position, install the purlin clasps to the bows using a 1/4 X 1/2" cap screw in the top hole in the bow. Attach the purlin clasps very loosely at the top hole of each clasp only. The purlin clasps that have three holes are for the end bows only. 4. Assemble all bows in the same manner. • ASSEMBLY OF NEW ENGLAND Page S ERECTION OF BOWS' 1. Start with end bow, with a man on each end, place one end first onto post, have the man on the opposite end hold his bow high to align the bottom of the bow with the post. Install carriage bolt and nut loosely. 2. Man on opposite side must spring bows into position and install carriage bolt. 3. With one man holding the end bows plumb (by sight) have the other man tighten the splice plate bolts (top and bottom) . 4. Install all bows in this manner, be careful when tightening splice plates to hold bow in vertical position. INSTALLING RIDGE POLE Install the ridge pipe using the 1.315 dia-16'-2' long swaged pipe. Start at the first bow at either end using the plain ( female) end of the pipe install the 1/4-20 x 3° bolt and dnutbow through the bow and ridge pipe and tighten. And aergn fnthe ourr holes. connect the male and female ends of the pipe Install the 1/4-20beiow: bInstalt lll the remai through nderthe ofbtheand r dgeswaged pipepipe. Connect as shown end• cut any excess pipe at the opposite REPLACES VIEW "J" 4E10 0 ON BLUEPRINT (ID C4RR/ACE130L7' (;), - .� %4x3%2� LAYOUT OF PURLINS 1. Open bundle of -purlins ; start with purlin 16 ' 2-1/2" lay purlin on baseboard with the swaged end toward opposite end of house and clamp one end to the end bow with the end of purlin flush with the outside face of the bow not the fascia. 2. Using a marking pen mark the center of the end bow on top of the purlin. 3. At each bow mark the purlin at the side of the bow towards the start end of the purlin, mark the top of the purlin,. and throw an "X" on the bow side of the mark. Repeat until all bows touching this purlin are so marked. 4. Position 2nd purlin on base and slide onto first purlin until seated, do not force. At this joint using the marking pen scribe a line 3'' long top center of the joint and approximately 1 on each purlin. Next mark the top of the joint. We will use these match marks when we install the purlins on the bows. X.S.SMITH,INC. • DRAWER X • RED BANK,NEW JERSEY 07701 • (201)222-4600 NOTICE 1. SUBSTITUTE #14 HH SMS FOR 1/4" x 1/2" SS HH CS TO ATTACH PURLIN CLASPS TO THE BOWS. 2. ON HOUSES 16' , 32 ' , 48' ,64 ' ,80' ,96' , 112' , 128' , 144 ' , 160' , 176' & 192' long. A 12" PURLIN EXTENDER IS PACKED WITH THE PURLIN CLASPS. THE EXTENDER IS USED TO FINISH THE MALE END OF THE SWAGED PIPE AT THE LAST BOW AND THEN CUT TO THE REQUIRED LENGTH. • ASSEMBLY OF NEW ENGLAND Page 6 LAYOUT OF PURLINS CONTINUED 5. Layout this purlin as in 3 above, and again until all internal purlins are laid out. 6. Slide the end purlin on the last internal purlin until seated, mark the outside' face of the end bow, remove and cut (pipe cutter or hack saw) re-install, lay out, mark center of end bow on purlin end. INSTALLATION ON BOWS 1. Without reversing ends, remove from base and carry into hause and lay on ground in position under purlin clasps. 2. Install start purlin by sliding purlin under purlin clasps, rotate purlin until layout marks are towards you. 3. Install 2nd cap screw in end bow purlin clasp, center mark with hole in clasp and tighten cap screws. 4. Install 2nd cap screws in internal purlin clasps aligning bow with layout marks on purlins. Continue until all purlin clasps are tightened on start purlin. 5. At the start purlin clasp bore a #5 hole (3/16") through hole in clasp and into purlin. Install and tighten 3/4" hex screw. 6. Install next internal purlin matching marks at the joint and tightening all purlin clasps on this purlin. 7. Fasten the joint as follows: 1" in from the end and from the bottom of the purlin bore a #5 hole thru the bottom of the two purlins and fasten using the 3/4" hex screw provided. 8. continue until all purlins in this run are installed. If your house has two runs of purlins on each side of the ridge start the layout of the second purlin run from the opposite end of the house, this will stagger the joints of the purlin runs and result in a stronger, straighter house. Repeat with purlin runs on opposite side of greenhouse. INSTALLATION OF BASE EXTRUSION 1. Loosen top baseboardtee bolt enough to slide on base extrusion. 2. Find piece 8' 3/4" long marked "start". 3. Slide extrusion onto tee bolts and center end toward center of house on bow. 4. tighten tee bolt on end bow and first internal bow. 5. Install internal rails 8' as follows: A. Starting at the tee bolt 8' from the end of the extrusion fasten to the base and slide onto the tee bolts until in postion. B. tighten the tee bolt at the splice and the next bow. C. Repeat steps "A" and "B" until all internal rails are installed. D. The last rail is marked end. E. Space spline clamps 11/2" from each end of each rail and 8 ' apart down the length. F. When installing the poly on the rail only the top spline is required. o ~ • OCT 3 1991 - - IG, •i Eu[h• --a O ouuT I O u ➢ y_ II 11 �� 5% m ` II t -..,_ / - O 13 2 / viEW 'C I Iz vlcW D 0 ii H i SV \) ‘-- CII CLEe:ep O 0 LII • C: =v to • . 1 J 'mm. -44' 0 V*4 cZ f\111\\��J�J////�� J i--� ® /_' di tB.Cu lrpnEEl i i� ` ^, , (fr 1 . < 1 ``ss _ _.�cL Q' 1 C: _=-n S"-..."yJ A--A, VISW C• SECT10A1 G-G I C b J 11 9 ® CPTIOw.- I 0 Q Q Q I . 0 H 0 • IS , , c.:.„.___. 1 1 O 0 /� �eNj r te L[ I 71- 1 v / Ifl 111 I 1 11� \ I �� lJ I -.ALIT rEE 1 v OI 1 1 2 II I 111... � is ra 11 1 - I T I W fRA»e Sc rTION B•B I :: _ OP710 NPL h - I . q{{�^�1�`)) 1�.f VIEW C0 1 4.3 • O I II s C o w y, Q. . �0% 1 1 . V.fv D `f\ \ ��``` ,5wC OGGO `mil 1 - 1 I a0 le Qz t.o i m ® • 0 v1EW N © /:'•' �E►PICJOCD VIENI �T.ON A • OPTION B• .10 G!l1PCR/ • :R;UNC , .ao^ Se Me.. ag ,// 1 cle . h. [ 3 0•00-....b.C.. -4 .. 16 u t_ v • rC u �' � .•C. 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